Altar Crack, Rivelin Edge, Peak District
Very Severe 4c ***
Hidden in the trees above the A57 just outside Sheffield, Rivein is a
popular choice for those cold winter days when you need a bit of shelter
from the icy winds. There are plenty of awesome routes from the very easy
to the insanely difficult but the far right hand side of the buttress has
a gem of a line; a striking 10m vertical crack up a corner that just begs
to be climbed. This is Altar Crack - an enticing line that has been the
downfall of many climbers with more impressive leads under their belt.
It is possible to jam all the way but the obvious style of ascent is
the layback and you'd be hard pressed to find more positive jams or a more
sustained jamming sequence at the grade. The route begins with bridging
moves from the 'altar stone' for which the route is named. There's a good
place to put in some protection and then you commit to the layback
sequence: deep breath, feet high, arms straight and go for it. There's
another good rest at the first break then it's back into the layback for
another couple of moves and a second rest before a final push for the top,
a well-earned rest and a sigh of relief as you belly flop over the
edge.
Not for the faint of heart, the moves feel totally committing and it's
easy to get gripped and pumped if you hag around. Falls will almost
certainly leave your hands in a mess and it's possible to hit the 'altar
stone' on your way down if you skip too much gear and fall from high
enough. That said, the 4c moves are straightforward, there are good rests
if you look for them and the protection is excellent if you keep a clear
head to place it. Altar crack is a real test-piece for solid VS leaders,
demanding confidence and skill as well as a certain amount of brute
strength. Definitely a lead to be proud of.
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