Cneifion Arete, The Glyders, Snowdonia
Grade 3 Scramble
Summer evenings in the Ogwen valley are one of the best things about
Snowdonia. The crags of Milestone Buttress and Cwm Idwal
catch the late afternoon and evening sun and this makes dragging yourself
off the hills after a good weekend particularly difficult. We joke about
the rain in Wales but when you get one of those stunning summer weekends
in the Ogwen valley, there are few better mountain playgrounds. The north-facing cwms of Glyder Fach to
the east and Glyder Fawr further west contain all sorts of walking,
climbing and scrambling routes - many of which are amongst the best of
their type in the country. The two summits are linked by a
broad ridge and the scrambling interest is confined to the cwms where
buttresses over 250m high frown down on the cwms and lakes below. Moving
east from Tryfan there's Cwm Bochlwyd where the North-West face of Glyder
Fach contains a number of quality harder scrambles such as Dolmen Ridge
(3) and Shark Buttress (3). The middle cwm is Cwm Cneifion which is the only cwm without a glacial lake. The
western-most cwm is Cwm Idwal with it's striking rock patterns and famous slabs. In an area that's
characterised by great quality rock and climbing, the Cneifion Arete, one
of the finest scrambles in Snowdonia, stands out. The arete lies on the
west side of Cwm Cneifion where it runs up to meet the Gribin ridge which
seperates Cwm Cneifion and Cwm Bochlwyd. It's best viewed from
the other side of Cwm Cneifion where it stands out as the steepest and
most continuous rock line on the west side of the cwm. From here the arete
leans ominously rightwards and it's steepness gives it an alpine flavour.
The route of the Cneifion Arete follows this sharp right-hand arete the
full length of the buttress. Gulp!
There are a number of possible approaches. The most straightforward is
up the path from Ogwen cottage into Cwm Idwal. Halfway along the lake
strike diagonally rightwards up the hillside into the lower part of Cwm
Cneifion. A more satisfying approach is via one of the grade 2 scrambles
on the right-hand side of the Idwal slabs. Idwal Staircase or North-West
Face route are good options, both finishing on Seniors Ridge with a great
view across the cwm at the knife-edged arete.
A loose, but well-defined path skirts the bottom of the buttress and
takes you up to the foot of the rock. This is a good place to get sorted,
perhaps put a rope on and get ready for the great scrambling ahead. In
terms of difficulty, the first 50m or so of the route contains the hardest
climbing so it's worth taking your time here. Climbing onto the buttress
and up between some blocks takes us to a large block (runners) and a
tricky step rightwards. Footholds are there for those crafty enough to use
them. This first part feels more exposed than it should. The ground drops
away quickly below the buttress and you can feel the air beneath your feet
almost immediately. Once past this step, good holds lead to a possible belay where the
arete meets the scruffy face to the left. This first part probably merits
a moderate rock climbing grade and will certainly test all but the most
experienced scramblers. From here the route continues upwards via a
chimney. There is a way around on the left but if you enjoy a challenge
it's worth attacking the awkward chimney direct. From here the route stays
on the arete where it romps over short walls and pinnacles overlooking the
steep south wall. There are plenty of square-cut holds and possible spike
belays if you want them. This part of the route is very photogenic so it's
worth taking a camera to capture your mate scrambling up the crest with
the drop down to the cwm below in the background.
After plenty of quality scrambling the ground eventually starts to
flatten out and you arrive on a grassy shoulder half way down the Gribin
ridge. This is a great place to rest and sort kit before beginning the
romp down to Llyn Bochlwyd and back to the road.
The Cneifion Arete is a great tick for experienced scramblers who are
familiar with roped scrambling techniques and used to climbing relatively
steep rock. The bottom pitch can feel intimidating but the rock quality is
good and for those willing to tackle something exposed the Cneifion Arete
is a true classic!
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