Croton Oil, Rivelin Edge, Peak District
Hard Very Severe
Rivelin Edge is often overlooked by visiting climbers who tend to head
for the famous eastern edges of Froggatt, Stanage etc. Rivelin overlooks
the A57 and is a very convenient place for quick evening trips from
Sheffield. The rock is good quality gritstone which tends to be quite
smooth but the friction is excellent. There are trees at the top of the
crag and the place has a reputation for being quite sheltered so a good
winter venue. There is a long history of climbing on the edge which began
with Puttrell and continued with famous names like Eric Byne and Dick
Brown. It's the home of one of the most impressive pinnacles around,
christened by Puttrell himself - 'the Rivelin Needle'. For many years an
ascent of the needle remained an elusive prize. until in 1944 a team used
a top-rope and a human pyramid to reach the top of the needle. This opened
the flood gates. Spiral Route - a wandering route around the needle was
climbed free in 1949 and in 1953, Dick Brown, Frank Fitzgerald and Donald
Wooller forced a route up the fine south side of the needle calling it
Croton Oil. They used 5 pegs for the ascent but realised that they had
created the best way up the needle. The remains of some of the pegs can
still be seen on the route. In 1963 Pete Crew and Oliver Woolcock
dispensed with the pegs to bag the first free ascent of Croton Oil - a
magnificent acheivement - and left us with one of the best climbs at the
grade in the Peak.
The route begins beneath the south side of the needle and trends
leftwards past a series of cracks to reach a niche on the left-hand arete.
From here a hollow-sounding flake with excellent holds leads to the top.
The initial wide crack to get off the ground is awkward and a certain
amount of wedging may be involved. Most will be happy with this but
technicians might prefer to seek out poor footholds on the right wall.
This crack lands you on a good ledge with gear and plenty of chance to
ponder the thin-looking slabby climbing above. Decent holds and clever
footwork allow a position to be gained on the left arete. There's a crack
to your right which is just good enough to allow you to remain in balance
whilst some gear is arranged to protect the crux moves further left. Take
your time here. Your last gear is a long way away and it's possible to get
these moves wrong. However, the moves themselves from this crack up to the
inviting juggy flake above are fantastic. Pulling between the left arete
and crack allows feet to be raised higher and with a good straight
'thank-god' holds in the flake are reached. Romp up the flake to land at
'the notch' and have a rest.
The flake above has a reputation for being 'rickety' but offers
fantastic holds in great positions. If you're suitably relaxed this is a
good place to have a look around and savour the exposure. The hard
climbing's behind you now and you've just got the excellent top to look
forward to. When you're used to elephant's arse finishes on other
gritstone routes this one comes as a very pleasant surprise.
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