Demo Route, Sennen, Cornwall
Hard Severe 4b
Whilst being relatively short, the Sennen cliffs have great charm and
provide enjoyable, honest, lower-grade climbing with good holds and
spectacular positions. The cliffs are accessed from a large platform that
is above the level of the tide but can be washed by spray. This proximity
to the sea means that you get all the atmosphere of sea cliff climbing
without the attendant hassles of descent. The rock is some of the finest
orange cornish granite to be found with intrusions of solid black granite
and it has weathered into some brilliant features. Demo Route, one of the
best hard severe climbs in the country is hugely photogenic and as such
has graced the cover of more than one south west guidebook.
The Sennen cliffs are accessed from ample parking for the beach at
Sennen Cove. As British Beach resorts go, Sennen Cove is a good one with
plenty of clean sand and at least one decent pub. There's a coastguard
lookout on the hill above the cove and a very short walk up here takes you
to the top of the cliffs. Scramble down a gully into Irish Lady Cove and
then traverse around and under the cliffs to arrive at the spacious
platform at the bottom of the main cliff. If you've seen the photos of the
route you'll recognise Demo Route immediately. The first part is an
obvious crackline that leads straight up through a couple of breaks to a
spacious ledge. Above the ledge is a large flake and the route traverses
leftwards beneath the flake before climbing the slab above. Ideally you
want to have a photographer in-situ at the top of the crag to take photos
as you make the committing but delightful moves under the flake and onto
the slab above.
From slightly left of the bottom of the crack, some lovely 4a moves
lead up to the crack itself and good gear. Continue climbing up to get
established with feet in the first break. Above is a wide, slightly
offwidth crack that swallows protection and many of the jams that you
might choose to use to ascend. Infact, there are small holds inside the
crack and also on the faces to the side and subtle shifts of body position
will keep you in contact with the rock. There is plenty of opportunity to
place protection and it's worth taking your time and enjoying the exposure
as you climb higher. Shortly you arrive on a good ledge with protection.
It's common to belay here although some people will do the route in one
pitch. Traverse left along the ledge and use huge undercuts underneath the
flake to move past it on the left. This section is steep but over quickly
as you pull up and over onto the slab above. There's small black jugs all
over this upper slab, plenty of opportunity to place protection in the
crack and you get a real feeling of being 'out there'.
For people new to the climbing in West Penwith, this route is a great
place to start. The climbing's all straightforward enough, the protection
good if placed sensibly, and it guarantees smiles all round at the
end.
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