Dolmen Ridge, Glyder Fach, Snowdonia
Grade 3
The North West Face of Glyder Fach is a mecca for scrambling
connoiseurs. The rock in the Ogwen valley really lends itself to
scrambling and nowhere is this more true than this place. The walk in is
longer than other scrambling venues and up here the routes have a big
mountain feel to them that might be lacking in other more accessible
places. Amongst the harder scrambles in the Glyders three really rise
above the rest. Cneifion Arete has a great line; the Wrinkled Tower on
Tryfan has some very tricky moves; but for real mountain atmosphere and
superb positions, you can't beat Dolmen Ridge!
The path up from Idwal Cottage to Cwm Bochlwyd rises steadily and by
the time you arrive at the shores of the little lake you're ready for a
rest. From here wander around the east side of Llyn Bochlwyd trying to
keep your feet dry. I know from experience that the west side of this lake
is a swamp. Once at the far side of the lake walk up towards the back of
the cwm headed for a small pond. Looking up at the huge North West face in
front of you there's an obvious shallow gully which splits the buttress.
Dolmen Ridge climbs the rocks to the right of the gully before crossing
the gully and heading up onto an airy ridge and towards the summit of the
mountain.
A path takes you up over boulders and scree to the foot of the buttress
proper. If there's anyone on the route in front of you it's worth putting
a helmet on early as there is a fair bit of loose stuff on the lower
section. The gully itself looks fairly uninviting (it's even less inviting
when you try to climb it) so climb the rocks on the right hand side. There
are a number of possible lines here; different ways to link a series of
short steps, corners and steeper sections. One minute you're on immaculate
rock with great holds. The next, you're in a grassy, slightly wet corner
and hanging on by your finger nails. It's worth taking your time here and
finding the most pleasing line. The general plan is to trend slowly left
until you can join the gully at a heathery shoulder. From here ascend the
gully (loose scree) until the gully narrows and bends slightly left.
You're now beneath the right-hand end of Dolmen Crag and the second half
of the scramble begins.
Just before the gully narrows, an easy-angled ramp leads up left
towards the crest of a ridge. Climb the ramp and make a tricky move to
reach a cosy niche beneath the crest of the ridge. A window in the back
allows you to look through and over to the other side. From the niche
(somehow) climb onto the ridge crest proper and romp over some beautiful
rock. The holds and belays are good and the views of Snowdonia are
stunning. This section has everything. High steps, traverses,
down-climbing and slabs. It's all over too soon as the ridge merges into
the mountain itself. Drop down to a col and then follow the continuation
line to end up at the summit of Glyder Fach. Descent is easy either east
down the footpath to Bwlch Tryfan or go south west around the top of Cwm
Bochlwyd and descend the Gribin Ridge. The last time I did it we descended
East Gully back to the start of the route but that's definitely not
recommended. It's loose, wet and full of unpleasant surprises and I really
don't think we saved any time overall.
This certainly isn't a scramble to be rushed. You want to take your
time over it. The walk in's a fair way and when on the route you want to
take your time. There are some tricky moves to be made high up and the
feeling of exposure is significant. If you want to put a rope on you'll
find plenty of good belays and runners throughout. Bear in mind that
getting off will take a while too. Take your time (and a camera) and
enjoy!
Click [here]
for photos of this route.
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