Flying Buttress, Stanage Popular End, Peak District
Very Difficult
Flying Buttress is a route with a bucket load of character which reaches
exposed positions normally reserved for harder routes. The route was first
climbed solo by Fergus Graham in 1922 and is still a popular favourite in
an area where popular routes are everywhere. At this end of Stanage there are cracks,
slabs and corners but
Flying Buttress is a route that seems to pack all sorts of climbing into
its short 20 metres. A slab to start, followed by a technical corner and
finishing with a tough mantel on huge jugs. Although there isn't a lot of protection on the
initial slab, the rest of the route is well-protected and the nature of
the climbing means that you're unlikely to get pumped out. The crux is off
a big ledge with protection close by so it's a good route to do if you're
starting to lead routes. For many people it becomes something of a lesson
in avoiding rope-drag. This is one of the few low grade routes at this end
of Stanage that benefits from double-ropes. It's a good idea to place the
early gear (slab and corner) on the left-hand rope and the important gear
to protect the final tricky pull over the top on the right-hand rope.
The route begins up the famous 'question-mark' slab. For years I didn't
understand why it was called this but apparently it's because you can take
a route in the shape of a question mark up it. I've always trended up the
left-hand side of the slab to an inviting wire runner just below the top
of the slab. From there, pull onto a ledge with an overhang above it and
place plenty of good gear to protect the tricky move into the corner. This
is the crux. A tenuous move on polished footholds gets you into the corner
and some decent holds appear. Once you're into the groove above it's worth
taking your time and placing more gear as things start to feel pretty
exposed as you climb out of the corner and onto the slab above.
There's good gear at the top of the slab and then an ungainly grovel
under the capping overhang leads to an airy ledge. There's a temptation
just to go for it from here but the final move can be tricky and so why
not take advantage of the excellent protection and place a bit more. Just
make sure you extend this piece plenty though or you'll be cursing it for
the next half hour as you try to bring up your second.
If you can, it's worth positioning a photographer on the main edge to
take photos as you pull over the top. You should be happy. You've just
ticked one of the finest routes on gritstone at the grade!
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