Guides Route on Torre Piccola di Falzarego and
South-West Face Route on Torre Grande di Falzarego, Dolomites
UIAA IV+
The area around the Falzarego Pass in the Dolomites has some great
climbing throughout the grade range. On the south side of the valley is
the climber's playground of the Cingue Torri whilst the north side has the
Torri di Falzarego and great routes on the faces of the Lagazuoi. For
climbers looking for uncomplicated routes around the Severe/Hard Severe
grade there is loads to go at. These two routes can be combined in one day
to make a great day's climbing which is easily accessible and with a
relatively uncomplicated descent. Torre Piccola sits in front of Torre
Grande and from the road it's hard to see that they are actually two
independent peaks. This route climbs an eight pitch route on Torre Piccola
before descending by abseil into the notch between the two peaks. A short
scramble down below the base of Torre Grande leads to the start of the
South-West Face Route and five nice pitches lead to the top of the
mountain. The routes on Torre Piccola are very popular but it's less
common for teams to continue up Torre Grande and you are likely to find
some quiet up here.
Park at a bar on the Cortina side of the Falzarego Pass road and walk
up to the base of the south face of Torre Piccola. Unless you're here very
early or the weather is dodgy you're unlikely to be the only ones there.
The mega-classic route on this face is the South Arete (Comici, 1934)
which begins on the left-hand side of the face. This is always busy and
the Guides Route which begins in the middle of the face offers an
alternative to waiting around. Look for a peg and start there where an
easy ramp leads off rightwards.
The first pitch is very easy and leads up to a belay with cemented
pegs. These continue throughout the route and this has to be one of the
most well-equipped faces in the area. The local guides use the crag
regularly and keep the protection in good condition. That said, it is
worth taking a set of wires and some slings on all routes in the Dolomites
as there are often sections that aren't pegged. A right to left traverse
takes you across to share a belay with the crowds starting the South Arete
route before you move back right up a steep groove and chimney crack. The
climbing is good honest stuff with plenty of holds and some really nice
moves. From the top of the groove the next pitch goes up and rightwards
(the crux is stepping off the belay onto a short wall) and traverses on
small holds towards the arete where you join the South Arete route. Below
there will probably be loads of people and the views down into the valley
are great from here. Behind is a steep wall and a couple of pitches take
you up past that and onto the summit of Torre Piccola di Falzarego. A
scramble down leads to some cemented-in abseil bolts allowing a
free-hanging abseil to the notch between the two peaks. Have a rest, a
look at the weather and decide whether or not you're going to continue to
the summit of the mountain. A lot will probably depend on how much you've
been held up on the first part of the climb but it is possible to descend
directly to the valley from here.
To continue up the South-West Face Route scramble down the gully
between the two peaks and locate some red markings at the base of the face
of Torre Grande. The first pitch is short and easy and leads up into a
niche below a steep wall. The next two pitches are the main portion of the
climb with the second 45m pitch containing the hardest climbing. Small
holds on a fairly steep wall. It's all well-protected stuff and the route
is thoughtfully marked with red paint. Some easy scrambling leads to the
summit of the mountain and some more abseil kit allowing a long abseil
back down on the west side of the mountain where a path leads down to the
valley.
These routes make an excellent introduction to the style of climbing in
the Dolomites and by combining the two you've done 13 pitches of climbing!
Click [here]
for some photos.
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