South-East Arete, Sasso di Stria (Hexenstein),
Dolomites
UIAA IV+
There's some brilliant big routes in the Dolomites but the style of
climbing does take some getting used to. It's worth starting off with
something well within your grade to get used to the rock, the 'etiquette'
on routes and the protection. Sasso di Stria (also known as Hexenstein) is
an attractive little peak to the east of the Falzarego cable car station.
It's got something of Tryfan about it sitting as it does just above the
road. It's south-east arete offers the Severe climber a great day out on
sound rock; a great introduction to Dolomite climbing. There's a short
walk-in, the climbing's varied and in places quite exposed and you're
unlikely to be alone. In-fact, due to it's convenience and the variety of
the climbing, this is probably one of the most popular routes in the area
and it's not unusual for teams to be strung out along the route when you
arrive. This can be a pain but the banter is usually good. If you really
want to get in front of people you need to be here at 7 a.m. It's worth
checking this route out if you're looking for a half-day route in relaxed
surroundings. The route is equipped with cemented belay pegs and although
it's definitely worth taking a set of wires, there are a few protection
pegs also in situ.
From the valley station of the cable car in the Falzarego pass it's a
1km walk along the road to where the path goes off. Kohler and Memmel's
'Classic Dolomite Climbs' has a good description of how to get to the base
of the route. The description in the Ron James AC book isn't so good. Once
off the road a 45 minutes walk past a minor sport crag and then uphill
leads to the base of the route. The climbs in this small slabby sport
climbing area are all easier than 6a and it might make a nice diversion
after the route.
The route begins at the base of a gully and starts by climbing the rib
that bounds the gully on the left. The rock's easy-angled, sound and good
to climb. There's a stance in a small corner and a short corner crack
behind. This provides the first tricky bit of climbing with some steeper
moves away from the belay. Continue up the rib steeply first on the left
and then crossing over to the right. There's another set of possible belay
bolts if you want them but many will be happy to run these two pitches
together to arrive on a good ledge. The view down into the valley from
here is tremendous and it's nice to be away from busy Falzarego. The next
pitch goes up and right into a short, polished, slightly awkward chimney
which leads onto a steeper wall at the back and an airy ledge at a notch
on the arete. There's a nice pitch up a chimney crack afterwards and then
a squeeze through a window leads to a scree ledge. We lent someone a nut
key here and spent the next half an hour watching the poor guy fight with
his stuck wire (which frustratingly for him was placed right next to a
perfectly good bolt). At the end of the scree ledge a short, polished, but
strangely enjoyable crack leads to another stance below the crux of the
climb. Above is a lovely, steep crack which succumbs to all the techniques
that you've been perfecting on the grit. A jam will fit, you can smear on
the rock to the sides and the moves are really nice. Not just 10 feet of
it either. The crack keeps on going past a number of peg runners to a good
ledge at the top. It's possible to reach the same ledge by scrambling up
the gully to the right of the crack but that's not half as much fun. From
the ledge, it's just a short scramble to the cross on the summit. The
route down is easy following a short section of Via Ferrata cable and
ladders and then paths down to the road in the valley.
After ticking the south-east arete of Sasso di Stria you'll probably
feel ready to tackle some bigger stuff over Cortina way.
Click [here]
for some photos.
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