Jack's Rake, Pavey Ark, Langdale, Lake District
Grade 1 Scramble
If you really want to experience life on the edge there's no better
introduction than a guided trip across Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark. It's a
rising right to left diagonal weakness that runs all the way across one of
the most impressive rock faces in Langdale. Many hillwalkers and day
trippers will be familiar with the face itself, looming as it does over
the Stickle Tarn honeypot. Those with an eye for such things might have
seen tiny figures moving slowly but steadily along and upwards - on a
narrow terrace. From the ground it looks impossibly difficult but once
you're on it the ledge is broad enough, the difficulties short-lived and
the scrambling amenable. However, it's worth remembering that escape is
difficult once you're on it, it can be very slippery after rain, in some
parts a slip would be disastrous and protection is not always easy to
arrange. For all these reasons hiring a guide for a day's scrambling
enables you to cover more ground in safety and learn some new skills along
the way.
The walk up begins from the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in Langdale where a
path heads uphill next to Stickle Ghyll. It's funny how many Ghylls there
are round here. In fact, if you speak to any local Cumbrian shepherd he'll
tell you that the correct local spelling is Gill with Ghyll being an
affectation popularised by Wordsworth. The path takes you up past some
lovely cascades before crossing backwards and forwards a couple of times
to arrive at Stickle Tarn at the top. This really is a tremendous place.
The tarn itself is framed by the enormous bulk of Pavey Ark itself and
this is a great place to pick out the three scrambling lines on the face.
Easy Gully (grade 1) is the broad gully on the right side of the crag
containing a number of large boulders low down. The first part is
low-angled but contains a fair bit of loose rock so great care is needed
to avoid dropping rocks down on other members of the party. At the top of
the gully the angle steepens considerably as you are forced past a
chockstone. Although the route never feels exposed, this is not a place
for the nervous or novice scrambler. Just to the left of Easy Gully is the
start of Jack's Rake (grade 1) - perhaps the most striking line on the crag for
those with an eye for such things. Further left and starting from a larger
patch of green is the famous Crescent Route. Whilst some people call this
grade 3(S) scrambling it is definitely a Moderate rock climb and no give away at
that. Crescent Route starts as a slightly dirty, damp, loose and difficult
to protect arete before finishing with a flourish with a left-right
traverse above jaw-dropping exposure. A route for rock climbers and expert
scramblers only.
A walk clockwise around the tarn takes you to the bottom of Jack's Rake
itself. It's actually a drainage line and depending on the amount of rain
there's been recently the rock can be totally dry or running with water.
At first it's quite straightforward - good ledges for feet and big holds
for hands. You're climbing in a trench and you only have to look over the
edge if you want to. The terrace rears up slightly and the route takes a
short corner with tiny holds for feet on the very edge. Careful movement
along a narrow ledge takes you to a hole in the left side of the trench
and a tricky six foot rock step on the other side. It's common to use a
rope here and many will be grateful for some protection on this bit. It's
a long way down to the scree below. From here the route continues less
steep but just as exciting with some sideways scrambling across slabs.
You're out of the trench now and can really feel the exposure. After a bit
of squirming on the edge of a big drop the rake finishes on a shoulder
close to the summit of Pavey Ark. The views from the summit of Pavey Ark
are excellent and the energetic will choose to continue the day with a
tour of the Langdale Pikes before dropping down to one of the excellent
pubs in the valley for a well-earned drink.
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