Ascent of Marmalada (3343m) via VF, Dolomites, Italy
Ian Scott
22nd Sept 2006
Marmalada is the highest of the Dolomites and is the only peak in the
Dolomites that carries year-round snow and a glacier on its northern
flank. Marmadala is located at the head of the Val di Fassa a few miles
from the village of Canazei. While the north face is glaciated, the south
face displays a 3km wide face that is the home of some of the steepest
rock climbs in the Dolomites. The approach to the ascent of Marmalada via
the north face is made from the Passo di Fedaia that can be approached
from Canazei or From Malga Ciapella. The two principal routes to the
summit (or Punta Penia as it is known) start from Rifugio Castiglioni.
Rifugio Castiglioni lies at the southern end of the dam of the deep blue
Lago di Fedaia which forms an impressive backdrop to the ascent. A
'shopping trolley' cable car takes one speedily from Rifugio Castiglioni
to Rifugio Fiacconi which is just a short walk away from the snout of the
glacier. From the Rifugio Fiacconi there are two routes frequently used to
reach the summit. Firstly, the west ridge route via via ferrata begins
with a descent around the base of a rocky spur before crossing a
subsidiary glacier en route to Forcella Marmalada and the start of the
wire. The alternative shorter and lower grade route involves a direct
ascent of the glacier. The snout of the glacier is encountered about 20
mins after leaving the Rifugio Fiacconi and on the glacier crampons,
helmet, rope and ice axe become the norm.
Our party visited the summit of Marmalada direct up the glacier from
Rifugio Fiacconi. This route combines glacier walking with via ferrata and
ours was a group of four with one UIAA guide walking with a short rope
between us. A gradual steady route zigzagged between small crevasses,
steadily rising across the face until the route finally swung to the right
and crossed to the other side of the glacier. The route was lightly
covered in snow from the start. Where the route over the glacier meets the
western edge crampons are removed ready for a grade 2 via ferrata. The
initial scramble into the small gully is quite exposed but there is little
to fear on this section that involves about a 30 minute climb and is wire
protected throughout. We also kept the rope on for this section. The via
ferrata finishes on a snow ridge and the summit cross is clearly visible
some 300m above. At this point it is time to get the ice axe back out and
put the crampons back on for the steady snow-covered route to the summit.
The views to the Sella plateau and Sassolongo and further a field to
Tofanas and Civetta spread themselves out below. The summit rifugio is
where the rucksacks and crampons are removed for the short trip to the
summit cross where the daring or foolhardy take the opportunity to pose
standing on top of the steel lattice cross alongside the Madonna. The
views on a clear day are breathtaking stretching across the Dolomites to
the Julian Alps, Grossglockner region of Austria and down to the Venice
lagoon in the right conditions. The cross and rifugio are situated
overlooking the ski lift to Punta Roca and overlook the massive south
face. Climbers on the west ridge via ferrata join the summiteers from
behind the rifugio. A sun terrace provides an excellent place to relax in
the thin air before crampons are put on again ready for the descent along
the snow ridge.
In fair conditions the route described (which is the usual descent
route from the summit) should be climbed without difficulty by parties
competent in winter mountaineering. The route was started at 8:00 am from
Lago di Fedaia and completed at around 4:00 pm. It is worth checking
whether the lift is operating as its season is short and the alternative
walk back to the lake takes around 1 and a half hours. The west ridge via
ferrata is the highest in the Dolomites and is rated at grade 4C. It is
understood to present little technical difficulty but is often made
impassable by snow and ice. Advice of a local guide is advised if this may
be a problem. The route is demanding in these conditions. The via ferrata
is heavily stempled and very exposed in places. The route was climbed in
September when conditions were around the best of the season.
Marmalada direct up the glacier is an excellent introductory alpine
route for those who look to advance their mountain experience. The west
ridge via ferrata offers a greater challenge requiring alpine skills and
goes at alpine grade PD-. The difficulty of both routes would increase
significantly in poor weather.
Click [here]
for some more photos.
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