Normal Route, Petite Aiguille Verte, Mont Blanc Massif
PD+
The Petite Aiguille Verte is a famous training climb that is
justifiably popular. From the top of the Grand Montets cable car there is
only 250m of ascent to it's photogenic summit. However, this route packs
all sorts into that short distance. There is a bergshrund to be crossed,
an ice slope that needs careful protection and rock and mixed climbing
near the top. Coupled with all this are amazing views of the Verte,
Aiguille Sans Nom and the Dru. On a good day (see photo), this is a
tremendous way to spend some time - either as training for other routes or
as an easy day.
Start at the bottom of the metal steps leading down from the Grand
Montets cable car station onto the glacier and this is the place to rope
up and put crampons on. There are a number of routes of varying degress of
difficulty on the north face of the Petite Aiguille Verte but the most
popular begins by climbing straight up before heading off rightwards. The
bergshrund is usually crossed at an angle heading right before a steeper
ice slope leads to a saddle at the base of the north-west ridge. From here
there are options. Some people take to the rocky crest straight away and
this will provide the best opportunities for protection. The alternative
is to stay on the snow slope on the north side of the ridge for a distance
before cutting back up onto the ridge later on. Sometimes there are good
steps on this section but at other times it can be hard work on solid ice
and there will be fewer protection opportunities. A number of ice screws
can be useful here.
A series of short rock steps lead upwards towards the summit of the
Petite Verte and the most tricky warrants a UIAA grade III. Some of the
ground is mixed and it's a good idea to keep crampons on for the whole of
the route. Just when you think the rest of the ascent will be on rock
you'll come across a patch of ice and wish you'd kept the spikes on.
The summit itself is not particularly distinctive and in fact is just part
of a long ridge that leads up to the summit of the Aiguille Verte. This is
a much longer trip involving complicated route finding but the views from
the summit of the Petite Aiguille Verte are breathtaking. This is a good
place to relax, take some alpine photographs and contemplate future trips
up the Argentiere glacier.
The descent involves reversing the route which is not particularly
difficult. If you don't fancy down-climbing the tricky bits there's often
abseil tat in place. In fine weather the route can be very busy as it's a
favourite route for guides to climb with clients. A bit of good-natured
co-operation will pay dividends on the way down.
Whilst being an excellent training climb the route isn't without it's
dangers. The Bergschrund needs careful handling and you need to watch each
other over it. The ice slope at the top of the north face is steep and a
slip would be very serious. Most people will want to use some form of rock
or ice protection here.
The rock on the top section is the finest Chamonix granite that I've
ever climbed on. There's very little loose stuff and it's a pleasure to
climb on. The guidebook time for the route is 1 hour to the summit and
that's not unreasonable given good snow conditions and no queues.
Click [here]
for some photos.
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