Tower Face, Laddow Rocks, Peak District
Very Severe 5a ***
(thanks to Toni for permission to use her photo)
Laddow is one of my favourite crags in the Peak. While Stanage has more
climbing, Froggatt is climbable all year round, for grandeur of setting,
Laddow beats them hands down. The whole area north of the Snake road has
an austere and dignified character that sets it apart from the roads, ice
cream, and bustle of the Hope Valley and south Peak. Some of my most
enjoyable times out walking and climbing in this part of the Peak have
been alone, exploring in the footsteps of many, many others and enjoying
vistas across the dark moorland.
Laddow is, as you might say, a traditional crag. The description in the
BMC selected guide 'On Peak Rock' describes it as having 'a gross
historical ambience' and I always remember that description. The crag is
situated high up on the moorland rim in a sea of heather and bracken and
looks down on the lovely valley below. There's no path in the bottom of
this valley and from the routes themselves the scene below is unspoilt by
the man. Considering that you're only 45 minutes from the car, this is an
extraordinary place. Laddow was a favourite of the pre-war climbers and
the first climbing there probably took place in 1901. Ernest Baker (author
of a fine work titled 'Moors, Caves and Crags of the Peak District')
arrived at Crowden on the train in that year with the intention of
exploring the trackless moors towards Holmfirth but was diverted to Laddow
where he scrambled up and down some of the more obvious chimneys. The
'golden-age' of climbing at Laddow was between 1901 and 1920 with fine
routes such as Long Climb, Leaf Crack and Cave Crack being climbed. There
are some great stories behind the ascents of some of these routes from a
period of real exploration in the Peak. My favourite is Ivar Berg spending
the night in the Cave before soloing the first ascent of Cave Crack before
breakfast in 1916! Apparently the route was so hard he took his jacket
off!
Laddow is not a crag that's in condition year-round. The most reliable
conditions are found from June to September but it's worth having a look
at other times. You just have to be prepared to enjoy a walk if the routes
are wet. Laddow has a proper walk-in and is much the better for it. The
climbers who come to climb here have made the effort and will usually find
themselves alone enjoying the good, but unobtrusive path that leads up
from Crowden. I once made the mistake of nipping down before the crag
which necessitates a grim march across boggy ground and bracken at the
base of the crag. Much better to walk past the top of the crag on the path
and drop down at the far end to the Cave area.
To the left of the Cave is Tower Face (VS 5a ***), climbed sometime
before 1918 and one of my favourite VS routes in the Peak. The route takes
the centre of a relatively high and obvious rectangular face that faces
Crowden. The base is undercut where softer rock has been eroded and the
start is technically the most difficult part of the whole route. The route
begins at the top of a steep slope so an anchor for the belayer should be
considered. There's a large wide break at the bottom of the face and a
couple of good undercuts lurk in the top of this. A very 'butch' move up
on these undercuts should put a good crack in reach, a classic layback
move and you're established on the route itself. Good gear can be arranged
in a crack here and then it's some gorgeous delicate climbing up the face
using small finger holds and slopey, but decent footholds. All too soon,
you're on the ledge halfway up the route. Move right slightly and into the
base of a steep corner. There's a crack in the back which succumbs to
careful jamming and footwork. Finally the good holds at the top are
reached and you can relax and enjoy the view.
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