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Abseiling Tips & Tricks
It's important to recognise that this isn't 'Abseiling 101'. The
fundamentals of anchor selection, rigging, using an abseil device
and protecting yourself if you encounter problems are best learnt
practically from someone with experience. However, assuming that
you've some experience of organising your own abseils, this might be
worth thinking about.
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Build yourself an abseil
device - cowstail thing
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| Always use a back-up
prussic when abseiling. If you attach your
prussic back-up to your leg loop there is a risk that were you
to get knocked out, pressure would be put on the top of the
prussic by the abseil device and the prussic would fail. One
way around this problem is to extend the abseil device away
from the body using a short sling.
Taking this a step further gives us the arrangement shown
in the photo. A 120cm sling is larks-footed to the belay loop
on the harness and an overhand knot tied around 20 cm from the
harness. The belay device is clipped into the loop formed
between the overhand knot and the larksfoot. A screwgate krab
can be clipped to the end of the sling and used as a cowstail
for security whilst threading the rope into the abseil device
and sorting the prussic. Once the abseil device is threaded
and prussic is on it's a good idea to do a short (few cms)
test abseil to make sure everything is working properly before
removing the cowstail from the anchor. The cowstail krab
(green in photo) can be stowed out of the way on a gear loop
whilst you're abseiling.
This sort of arrangement is very handy when you're doing
multiple abseils as you've got a permanent cowstail that can
be used to clip into anchors. |
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How to get your ropes
down the crag when it's windy
If it's windy, throwing your ropes down the crag may not be
an option. One of the worst places for this is Western Gully
on Dinas Mot, the standard descent after doing routes on the
Nose. Often you're throwing your ropes directly into a
westerly wind and sometimes you're doing well if they go ten
feet before diving between the rocks in the bottom of the
gully. The gully that you're abseiling down is at a very
gentle angle and there's loads of things in the bottom for
ropes to get caught on.
There are a few options in this situation. If you've got a
rucksac you might decide to stuff the rope into that (starting
with the knotted ends). Attach a short sling to the rucksac
and hang it from the belay loop on your harness. As you abseil
the rope just feeds out of the bag. If the angle is very
gentle you might be better attaching the rucksac to the side
of your harness with a krab as it tends to drag on the ground
and get stuck.
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Another method to try is coiling the rope around your body
(see pic) and flicking the coils off as you abseil. Set up the
abseil as normal and take coils across your body starting from
the end of the rope. This is important. If you start with the
end closest to the anchor they won't run off. As you abseil
you stop, flick off a few coils and abseil a bit more before
stopping and flicking off more coils.
Finally, you might decide to lower the first person down
and then everyone else abseils after them.
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| Look after your anchors
and rope - don't bounce
When abseiling you can minimise the load on the anchors by
abseiling smoothly. This is a very good thing. Cavers and rope
access types have found that a jerky abseil technique where
the abseiler is rhythmically bouncing on the rope can double
the force on the anchors. Ascending a rope using a bouncy
technique generates even more force on the anchors. The
logical conclusion of this is that the worst-case scenario is
a heavy person ascending a short rope (less rope to absorb the
forces) with a bouncy technique.
It's very important to protect your rope from sharp edges
when abseiling. A bouncy abseiling technique, particularly on
dynamic climbing rope can cause the rope to saw over an edge.
At best the rope may be damaged. At worst it may be cut.
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Always tie knots in the ends of your
ropes
If you can't see that the ropes reach the ground then
always tie knots in the ends to prevent you abseiling off the
end. A figure-of-eight pulled fairly snug is a good option.
Always leave at least a forearms length of tail below the know
to prevent the knot from shaking off the end of the rope.
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Add friction when
abseiling
It's sometimes useful
to be able to add friction to your system when abseiling. You
might want to do this if you're wearing a rucksac, your ropes
are wet, icy or muddy or you're using a particularly slick
belay device. There are a number of different methods but one
of the best is to use two belay krabs rather than one. The
friction is added because the rope is in contact with more
metal. Makes a big difference.
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