Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella, North Face of Tofana di
Rozes, Dolomites
VF 4C
Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella offers those with experience of Via
Ferrata in the high mountains a long day; a great route to a high summit.
The route begins on the south side of Tofana di Rozes - at 3225m one of
the highest peaks in the Dolomites - and follows first world war tunnels
through the mountain to emerge on the north side. From here the route
climbs the extensive north face of the mountain where it links a series of
ledges and weaknesses between them. Although the Via Ferrata is not of the
highest technical standard this is a very long route on a very high
mountain and anyone undertaking the trip should be experienced in this
type of environment. A good awareness of the weather and the ability to
navigate confidently are just as important as skill and strength on the
cables. The route will take a fast party around seven hours and involves
1200m of ascent and descent.
From Rifugio Dibona it's an easy matter to follow the 'VF Lipella'
signs in front of the towering south face of Tofana di Rozes. As you're
walking past it's amazing how long this face goes on for and it takes
about an hour to get to the start of the tunnels (Grottes de Tofana). On a
weekend day the entrance to the tunnels is likely to be the scene of much
activity with people getting kitted up ready for a trip through. You'll
need a torch in the tunnels and a lightweight headtorch works very well
indeed. A series of ladders lead up into the tunnels and the it's up some
slippery blasted passageways into the mountain. The remains of troop
barracks can be seen in here so it's worth having a good look round on the
way through. Follow the cable all the way to the top and when it breaks
out into daylight continue down onto a path. You are now on the north side
the Tofana and walking right along the path for 15 minutes takes you to
the start of the VF itself. Look out for a big red arrow that indicates
the start of the VF. We missed it the first time and realised that we
should backtrack when the path disappeared on a very narrow and greasy
looking ledge. Having located the start it's now just a case of following
the cables. Even at the start you're a fair way up this north face and in
mist the place has a sombre atmosphere. At first the climbing isn't that
steep and the ledges are nice and wide. At times the route takes you
straight through small waterfalls that tumble down from the upper reaches
of the face. Giovanni obviously had a sense of humour as he seems to have
ordained that cowstails need to be changed over and clipped directly in
the flow of these cold torrents. All great fun! As you get higher the
angle steepens and it's often difficult to imagine where the route's going
to go next. Before long you really do feel as though you're out there
alone on a big, imposing face and the scale and complexity of the rock
architecture is extremely impressive. The protection on this section of
the VF is all very good and everything has the feel of being
well-maintained.
Before long you arrive at a wide ledge with 'Cima' and a black arrow
written on the rock. By going left here the escape route can be followed.
Those wanting to complete the VF need to go right here along the ledge and
continue to the next bit of VF. Here the VF changes character and the
altitude starts to make itself known. This upper section of the VF is
nowhere near as well equipped and is very steep in places. Ice can be
found up here at any time of year and this would make this upper section
of the VF a very difficult prospect indeed. It's worth having a good look
at the weather before embarking on this upper section as it would be very
difficult to retrreat from up here. After 300m of climbing on the upper
section the VF peters out and a short walk takes you to a shoulder on the
east side of the mountain where there's a memorial tablet to the creator
of the VF. From here, a 200m walk uphill (often into the mist) takes you
to the summit of Tofana di Rozes at 3225m. After admiring the eclectic mix
of twelve foot high metal cross, prayer flags and other wierdness descend
back to the shoulder and continue down to the disused Cantore hut. A path
then leads easily down to the valley.
In summary, this VF is a major undertaking. The route involves 1200m of
ascent and the same in descent which makes it a big mountain day by
anyone's standards. Being on a steep, remote and north facing side of a
mountain such as this has a number of attendant risks associated with the
weather and the exposure. If you're going to venture onto this route it's
important not to underestimate the scale of the task and the difficulty of
rescue were something to go wrong. That said, for those with the requisite
experience and the ability to move fast in the mountains, VF Giovanni
Lipella offers a great mountain journey.
Click [here]
for some photos.
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