Window Buttress, Sgurr Dearg, Isle of Skye
Difficult
Skye really is a magical place to climb and the rock is genuinely
unique. The island has volcanic origins and the main rock types are gabbro and
bassalt. Gabbro has probably the best frictional properties of any rock
being rough and very solid and Window Buttress on Sgurr Dearg has
some of the best rock on the island. The route is a great introduction to the climbing that Skye can
offer. It's never difficult but continuously interesting and offers
great views down to Glen Brittle. In good conditions the route offers the
most interesting way onto Sgurr Dearg and it's highest point - the
Innaccessible Pinnacle, scourge of generations of munroists. From the top
of the route a short walk takes you onto the summit and to the foot of the
Inn Pinn itself. Many people combine Window Buttress and the Inn Pinn in
one big mountain day.
You can see Window Buttress from the Memorial Hut in Glen Brittle.
Looking up into Coire na Banachdich there's a substantial buttress on the
south side of the corrie. Near the top there's a window straight through
the rock and if you look carefully you can see a pinnacle above it. Window
Buttress might be one of the closest rock climbs to the Glen Brittle road
but it's still not exactly roadside. In common with most of the rock
climbing on Skye, there's a significant, but enjoyable walk-in. In this
case follow a stream up into Coire na Banachdich passing the amazing
canyon of Eas Mor on the way. Once well up into the corrie an ascent
across some slabs leads up to the base of the buttress itself. A large
cairn marks the start of the route. Hopefully you will, at this point be
bathed in sunshine and looking forward to a couple of hours climbing on
dry Gabbro. If this is not the case, and you're standing in thick cloud
and rain you will be in for an exciting time. That said, if you have to
climb in the rain, gabbro's probably the best rock to be on.
The initial wall is steep and straight off the ground most will be
happy that there are good holds and ample opportunities for protection. A
good pitch takes you up to a large ledge. From here the route ascends a
blocky corner and then another, steeper corner above. This steep corner is
tricky but there are decent footholds if you look for them and it's over
quickly. Some slabs lead up to the base of a short tower with the window
right through it. There are two options here. Purists will opt to climb up
to the window itself via a slippery corner crack and yoga-themselves
through it whilst many will raise their hat to the window and avoid it via
a short corner on the left. Directly above the window is a good-sized
pinnacle with a gully behind it. It is possible to descend into the gully
and re-join the route behind the pinnacle. However, the best route goes
straight over the pinnacle to re-join the buttress at the other side. A
steeper wall behind requires some good route finding to avoid ending up on
harder ground and then it's a romp to the top of the climbing.
Window Buttress is a great route. Nowhere hard, but it keeps coming for
around 300 metres and it's well worth it for some of the views down into
Glen Brittle alone.
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